Fold-over collar and art of making the same



.1. W. HESS FOLDOVER COLLAR AND ART OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 2, 1921 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 lyc Dec. 3 3

- J. W. HESS FOLDOVER COLLAR AND ARI OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 2, 1921 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Dec. 1%, 31924,

J. w. HESS ER COLLAR AND ART OF MAKING THE SAME FOLDOV 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed July 2, 1921 at... so, 1924.

JOHN WILLIAM HESS. OF KITCHENER, ONTARIO, CANADA, ASSIGNOR TO GLUETT, PEA- BODY & COMPANY, INC., OF TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

FOLD-OVER COLLAR AND ART OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed July 2, 1aa1. Serial No. 482,072.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J OHN WILLIAM Hess, a subject of the King of Great Britain, and resident of Kitchener, in the county of Waterloo and Province of Ontario, Canada, have invented new and useful Improvements in Fold-Over Collars and Art of Making the Same, of which the following is a speci: fication.

My improvement relates to the manufacject the production of a soft, unstarched or lightly starched collar of the fold-over type, which shall be inherently stiff enough to hold its shape without wrinkling or crumpling, and be economical to manufacture. I11 its fullest expression, my invention provides for the manufacture of a completely finished collar from a single plece or blank of fabric, so that the operations to be performed upon the material avoid any assembly of separate parts, and comprise only the primary shaping, folding and sewing, of edges, fold line and buttonholes.

The fabric from which the collar blank is cut, particularly if the collar Is to be Worn unstarched or only lightly starched, should be firm and stout. If heavy body is to be combined with fine texture, the fabric may be any of the known multiple-ply weaves, either such as to present a simple weavesurface, or a pattern, or the ribbed face pattern known as pique; or the fabric may be of any suitable stifi woven structure, either plain or patterned.

In the drawings hereto annexed, which 11- lustra-te my invention,

Figure 1 shows, in plan view, one end of a blank, out in a singlepiece;

Figure 2 shows, in plan, the blank of Fig. 1, with the collar-top portion edgefolded once. This figure presents that 1nner surface of the collar which will eventually lie within the folded or turned down collar-top;

Figure 3 shows, in plan, the blank with the collarband portion edge-folded once. This figure presents the Surface of the collar top or flap which will eventually be the outside or visible surface;

Figure 4-shows in plan, the same surface of the collar blank as is presented in Fig. with the collar-top edge-folded the second lme;

Figures shows the same view as Fig. 4, 3 1th the edge folds of the collar-top stitched own;

Figure 6 shows, in plan. the samesurface of the collar blank as is presented in Fig. 3, with the collar band portion edge-folded the second time, and with a plait extending longitudinally across the blank;

Figure 7 shows, in plan, the same surface of the collar-blank as is presented in Figs. 3 and 6, with the edge folds of the collarband portion and the plait folds stitched down; v

Figure 8 shows the finished collar, in perspectlve Figures 2, 3, 4 5, 6*, 7, 8*, represent respectively sections on the lines a-a of Figs. 2 to 8 inclusive.

The collar illustrated in the several fig ures of the drawings is manufactured as follows:

A blank 1, is cut from a sheet of woven fabric, preferably a multiple-ply fabric, which affords inherent body and stiffness while presenting a closely-woven surface texture. The blank 1 is of such shape andsize that it will provide material for forming the edge-fold finish on the margins of collar-top portion 2 and band portion 3. In order that the margins of top and band shall eventually become continuous notches 5 are provided, and in order to provide for smooth finish at the points of the collar top, the blank is beveled at the points, as at 4.

The first operations are to make the first or preliminary edge folds. In Fig. 2, the edges of the collar top portion are shown as turned, forming the internal margin A. This, and other turning operations, are best performed on a folding machine, of the well known type long emplo ed for turning the edges of collar and on blanks. The edge fold A leaves the points of the collar top beveled. c.

The collar blank is next edge-turned in the band portion. The preliminary band edge fold A is made to that side 'of the blank 1 opposite to that on which the top edge fold A lies. The edge fold A tapers to a point at the bottom of the notch 5. See Fig. 3.-

The next operation turns the edge of the collar top a second time, folding the preliminary turn A, under the second turn B. This points the collar top, as at 6, and brings the margin of the collar top in to the bottom of the notch 5; the top edge folds thus completed, are shown in Figs. 4 and 4, and are ready for stitchlng. Figure 5 shows the top edge folds stitched down by a double row of stitches S.

Then the final edge fold around the margin of the collar band portion is made, by forming a plait, with its folds at D and E, extending longitudinally of the collar, and forming the boundary at which the fold or turn of the top portion 2 is to be determlned. At the same time the margin of the band portion 3 is turned in, forming tl 1e final edge fold O, which overlies the preliminary edge-fold A. The collar at this stage of maufacture is shown in Figs. 6 and 6 and is ready for the stitching operation. A double row of stitches S and S permanently fixes the edge-folds A and C, and the plait defined by the turns D and E. See Flgs. 7

' Buttonholes 7 being cut and stitched in the usual manner, the collar is now completed, and when the top portion 2 is folded to the position it assumes when the collar is worn, it appears as shown in Fi 8. The relation of the several parts a ove described is shown in section, in Fig. 8*.

It will be observed that a collar, manufactured as above described may be made of a single piece of fabric and involve only the simplest operations. The triple thickness of fabric produced by the plate between folds D and E (which may be straight, as shown,

with parallel edges, or upwardly curved, or

wider or narrower in the middle than at its ends, as may be appropriate to the desired form of the finished collar) reinforces the collar structure along the line where the collar top is designed to fold over, and thus determines the fold line. Two of the thicknesses out of the three involved in the plait continue into the turned margin of the collar band at the tab portions, to provide additional durable strength at a point usually weak, and so that the ends of the plait are, when the collar is buttoned around the neck of a wearer, held sustained by the tension along the upper edge of the band. The collar thus made, when composed of substantial fabric, will hold shape without buckling, and nevertheless afford the ease and comfort derived from a soft, unstarched collar.

I claim 1. A fold over collar comprising a blank of cloth, which includes the top portion and band portion of the collar, said blank edge-' folded around the margin of the top, and around the margin of the band, the'said top edge folds and band edge folds, respectively,

'lying on opposite sides of the blank, the

blank plaited along the boundary between the top portion and the band portion, and lines of stitches along the said several folds.

2. A fold over collar comprising a blank of cloth folded on itself to form a plait at the boundary between the band portion and the top portion of the collar, stiffening the same and defining the fold line of the top portion.

3. A fold over collar comprising a blank of cloth folded on itself to form a three-ply plait at the boundary between the band portion and the top portion of the collar, two of the plies of said plait being continued into the margin of the band portion to form turned edge folds of the same. 4. A collar comprising integral band and depending top having a fold line for the de pendin top defined by a plait extending along t e blank at the top edge of the band, the collar having lines of stitchin extending around the edges of the band y which the walls of the plait are held in place.

5. A collar of the kind intended for wear in a soft state having a band and a foldover top integral therewith, the band having an edge fold surrounding and defining its extent, and the top being an integral extension of one wall of this edge fold extending beyond and overhanging the band.

6. A collar of-the kind intended for wear in a soft state having a band and a foldover top integral therewith, the band having an edge folded against one face surrounding and defining its extent, and the top being an integral extension of one wall of this edge fold extending beyond and overhanging the other face of the band.

7. A collar made of one integral piece of fabric having a band defined by a fold edge of the fabric completely surrounding and defining the edges of the band portion; and having a top extending from and folded at the inner end of the folded edge of one side of the band between the ends of said edge of the band, and secured to the folded edge.

8. The art of making collars comprlsing severing a blank, including a band portion and a top portion, from an integral piece of thick, relatively stiff material; forming a primary edge fold turned to opposite faces of the band portion and top portion respectively; forming a secondary fold of the band portion extending completely around the band portion; then folding the top portion outwardly and stitching the said folds of the band portion in place. 4

9. The art of making collars comprising severing a blank, including a band portion and atop portion, from an integral piece of thick, relatively stiff material; forming a primary edge fold turned to opposite faces of the band portion and top portion respectively; forming a secondary fold of the top portion defining the edge and turnedfltoward the same face as the primary fold;

forming asecondary fold toward the opposite face of the band portion extending com- 1 pletely around the band portions;then folding the top portion outwardly, and stitching the said folds of the band portion in place.

10. A collar comprising a neck-band memher and a turn-over member made of a single piece of fabric, the fabric having a fold between the said members and the fold being stitched at the fold line.

Signed by me at Kitchener, Ontario, Canada, this 27th day of June, 1921.

JOHN WILLIAM HESS. 

